You’ve heard of Johnny Walker, right? Quite possibly even tried it. Was it Red Label or Black Label you tried? You may or may not remember, but it was probably one of those two. The Red label is the cheapest Johnny, Black label is supposed to be a bit more special. But did you know there is a Double Black label? And then a Gold. And a Platinum. And then a Blue. And some others too, although by that point you’ve been pretty much priced out.
Point is, that trying a whiskey isn’t just about trying a whiskey; whiskeys come in families and those families are usually linked to a distillery. There’s an affordable, accessible spirit for popular consumption – the one which it may be forgivable to mix with cola – but behind that there’s always one or more products which are aimed a bit more at the discerning customer. Sometimes it’s because they’ve been aged a little longer, or had a little more love and care put into the making of them, or perhaps have been produced in an ‘experimental’ way. These are the whiskeys you’ll really be wanting to explore.
I could have chosen from loads of groups of whiskeys to use as an example, but one which I think is particularly exciting is Jefferson’s Bourbon. I discovered Jefferson’s in an interesting way, in that I kind of explored it from the top down. Whichever way you do it, with the basic bourbon product you’re already drinking something which is a bit special. It’s got an elegance too it; it’s not overly bold but the flavours are crisp and clear. The caramel and oak you expect are there and there are subtle hints of orange peel, vanilla and bay leaf. If you start the Jefferson’s journey with their entry-level offering, then make no mistake; it’s a good start. The clarity and wealth of discernible flavours comes from the fact that Jeff’s is a blend of several whiskeys – in my experience, ‘blended’ bourbons can often surprise you with their complexity and quality, and should not be sniffed at. Just sniffed. And tasted. Repeatedly.
The next step up is Jefferson’s Reserve, which clocks in at just under twice the price, but at £58 on The Whisky Exchange is still well within the realms of affordability if you’re looking for a really decent bourbon. This is where things get really interesting. The nose hits you with a spicy freshness, something almost like sandalwood, and ginger. It’s the kind of nose that could get you out of bed in the morning…if that was socially acceptable. And then comes the palette; fantastically rich, with distinct hints of smoke, seasoned wood and black pepper. It’s one of the bottles in my collection that I always replace with another when it’s empty.
Next on the scale is Jefferson’s Presidential Select. This, as it happens, is the first Jefferson’s I tried. I’ve not found it for sale anywhere in the UK, and I was lucky to find it in 51% Bourbon, in Leeds (more on that place in a later blog!). It was a pretty price for just one glass, but there was no buyer’s regret. It was one of the highlights of the evening, bursting with woody richness, fresh herbs, brushed leather and brown sugar.
In fact it was only a week after trying the Presidential Jeff’s that I bought my first bottle of the Reserve – mainly because the Presidential wasn’t available online to buy. However, had Jefferson’s next offering been available online in the UK at the time, I may well have been tempted to try it. Happily, Jefferson’s Ocean “Aged at Sea” bourbon is now available on TWE. I had to travel a little further to taste it, with the good folks at Goody Goody’s liquor store in Dallas willing to set a bottle by for an eager tourist!
Jeff’s Ocean comes under the ‘experimental’ category I mentioned above. Basically, while the spirit is aging, the barrel is sent around the world on a ship. The motion of the vessel and the salty sea air is supposed to give the bourbon a different quality, and it’s difficult to disagree that this is true. The whiskey is fruity and bright, and there’s no denying that there’s a saltiness in there too. It’s enjoyable in it’s own right, but more than that it’s unique and something you’ve just got to try.
Interestingly, according to the maker, the effects of this ‘experimental’ process of being aged on a boat are probably closer to the taste of historic bourbon, as barrels were generally transported by river. Who knew?
Jefferson’s also do the ‘Chef’s Collaboration” bourbon, but I haven’t been able to get my British hands on it yet. So I’ll confine myself to saying simply this; it’s probably awesome.
The moral of this happy story is a simple one; when you come across a new name in bourbon, do a little digging, see what variations they offer. The nicest surprises happen that way.